New York, September 13, 2012 – Deep men produce deep collections. Take for example, one of our favourite New York based designers, Mr. Marlon Gobel. He began his career working for both Michael Bastian and Thom Browne and is now making quite a name for himself. “If you want to be the best, you’ve got to work with the best,” says Gobel of his experience with the menswear heavyweights. He’s finding out for himself though, that becoming one of the best has its advantages and disadvantages. He’s slaved away on original menswear collection after collection only to see his pieces ripped off by larger corporate fashion houses (see Imitation of Gobel for examples). An occupational hazard yes, but this well of creative brilliance runs deep and the Gobel ideas keep coming.
On the surface, Marlon Gobel Spring/Summer 2013 is focused on a single theme – the final frontier. However, it goes a lot deeper than outer space and the collection is better for it. This isn’t a kitschy attempt at recreating Kubrick Space Odyssey 2001 costumes. The depth of Gobel’s SS13 collection stems from three main ideas. Show notes reveal a) the psychological theory of being awestruck by Nicholas Humphrey, b) a Stanford paper on biological advantages of being awestruck as they relate to perception and c) Ross Andersen’s rapturous meditations on the ontological awakening of our psyches by way of the Hubble Telescope imagery as the source of Gobel’s inspiration. The result? A deep, balanced, awe-inspiring menswear collection for SS13. “I want guys to feel like they are the centre of the universe,” says Gobel and they will sure look the part wearing MG SS13.
The opening look was about as close to a space uniform as it would get. From there, the collection was anchored mainly in exquisite tailoring and structured embroidered suits. The suits pulled from various elements of space travel including gold space foil, textures found in satellite panelling and space stations, and even those insulating space shuttle tiles. A suit resembling a low spatial frequency print or jacquard of the rings of Saturn or a far away galaxy was my personal favourite. Embellished rhinestone space varsity jackets and dress shirts, a carryover from Gobel’s stint with Swarovski Elements FW12, also quite nice. Windowpane checks and plaids routinely make an appearance at MG shows as do denim, hexagon prints and a killer tuxedo with womenswear look to match.
Not only were we awestruck by the fashion, but a little starstruck to catch Paris Hilton sitting in the front row and courting male model River Viiperi backstage. She was nice enough to give us an interview.